Havelis – Old Merchant Mansions of Shekhawati

beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes

Can I share a secret? I have new obsession… On my last trip to India I discovered a world of beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes. The only problem is they are hours away from the closest airport and a harrowing drive across the Rajasthan desert.

 beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes

The grand havelis of Shekhawati were owned by the merchant princes of Rajasthan (who are now some of the most successful business families in India). Located in Jaipur state, Shekhawati mansions are found in the districts of Jhunjhunu, Chur and Sikar. Many of these buildings have been left abandoned to the harsh desert climate by familes who have migrated to the modern commercial hubs of India.

 beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes

The word haveli comes from Iran, and means “enclosed space”. In Mughal India it was known as a home for the wealthy and powerful.

 beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes

Built by the business-minded Marwari, these mansions are a testament to past business successes and remain beautiful examples of Indian artistry from the early 1800s to the beginning of the 20th century.

 beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes

Haveli architecture exemplifies Rajput and Islamic building forms, as well as occasional European influences. The richly painted frescoes reflect both the religious and folk art of Rajasthan, combined with the colonial influence of “Company School” style painting.

 beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes

 beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes

As in most of India, havelis housed extended familes. Havelis often consist of two courtyards – a semi public meeting place for the men called a “mardana” and a private “zenana” for women (who stayed out of public view).

 beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes

Havelis were built inward facing which functioned as both a mechanism of privacy as well as protection from the desert and invaders. The traditional Indian courtyard home is built on the principles of Vastu Shastra, which state that all spaces emerge from the center of the house. All activities revolve around the center, which has a divine power and energy associated with it.

 beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes

 beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes

Ornate haveli doors were built to reflect the family’s status and wealth. Covered in wood carvings,hammered metal and elaborate murals, these grand entrances only suggested the splendors inside.

 beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes

 beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes

We had the opportunity to tour two beautiful restored havelis in the Shekhawati region. First stop was French artist Nadine Le Prince’s gorgeous old haveli in Fatehpur.

 beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes

She has been lovingly restoring it over the past 15 years and has maintained it’s original artwork and features. A labor of love and definitely worth a stop if you’re in the area. For more info on tours and hotel reservations, go here.

 beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes

 beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes

 beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes

 beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes

Further down the road we stopped in Ramgarh, Shekhawati where we spent a wonderful night at Ramgarh Fresco. It is owned by Raghvendra & Priya Rathore, who are from a prominent Rajasthani family.

 beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes

 beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes

 beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes

We were woken early by the sounds of traditional village life – cows mooing and the local Hindu temple bells clanging.

 beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes

 beautiful crumbling mansions and faded frescoes

If you get a chance to visit Rajasthan, it’s well worth a trip off the tourist triangle to visit these elaborate desert mansions. One can only hope that some day this region will be recognized as a World Heritage Site and given the restoration and attention it deserves.

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